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悲情的雅典

06/09/2016 6:55 am





倦鳥歸巢已經第六天了,在調時差的同時,ㄧ有空隙就在思索旅行的目的與意義。
要不是留下大量的照片為證,真有點懷疑是不是南柯一夢,遙遠的旅途似乎很快要變成遙遠。

雅典的一家希臘小餐廳,餐廳的客人不多,一個侍應生藉故調整暖爐的方向和我閒聊起來,起初我只是隨口應付,直到我提及加州時,他眼睛裏的光芒令我心中一震,這是一雙怎樣被長期壓抑的眼神。
他23歲,數學系畢業已經一年多,在餐廳裏打雜是唯一的工作,他悲哀的說希臘的局勢讓剛畢業的大學生找到相關的工作幾乎是不可能,現在雅典靠的是觀光業,而目前的旅遊淡季使他的上班時數也不定;
回客棧的路上我的腳步變得沈重,我想起前一天和一個退休警察的談話,他無奈的說退休金從每月兩千五歐百元,減至一千五百歐元,生活品質差了很多。
世界上多少人每年慕名而來,這個充滿神話也是西方文化搖籃的雅典,人們靠祖先在市中心遺留的斷恆殘壁過日子,報章雜誌寫的希臘國家的財務困難,竟然明顯的反應在民間,此番雅典之行,看到的是表面的光鮮,體會到的是它遮蔽的憂傷;
幾週前拜訪過的巴塞羅納,不也是靠十九世紀的高迪和畢加索兩位巨人撐起整個城市.

This small restaurant is located on the slopes by the end of the street. A few tables neatly arrayed outside of the restaurant. The burning candle in white glass jar quivered continuously. The tables were covered with white cloths which were typical Greek color white. They reminded us the white Caryatids columns from Acropolis.
Two old musicians fiddled with unknown strings. The Athens folk songs they sang sounded vicissitudes. From time to time, the guests sang along with the them. A few young man and woman also danced freely along with the music. Perhaps it could make them forget about all the unknowns temporarily. The air was casted by faint ancient nameless sadness. The night is truly chilled.
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